Coast to Coast on
In 2008 we were invited on a holiday cruising the Caledonian Canal from Corpach to Inverness, on board the working steam puffer “VIC 32”. This vessel, built at Thorne near Doncaster in 1943, offers several week long trips around the Western Isles and Caledonian Canal during the summer period. We were booked onto the first of the canal sailings, heading North to Inverness from Corpach.
We boarded at Corpach basin late on a wet grey Sunday afternoon. We were shown to our cabins –Skye and Eigg and left to unpack..
The crew on this trip were Nick (Skipper), Lyall (engineer), Mary and Daphne (cooks). Of course, the 11 passengers also made up the compliment, this was a working holiday!
Bev & yours truly, Denys & Sue, Dennis & Roz, Mark & Leanne, Tom, Todd and Judy.
We had a wonderful evening meal then retired for an early start the next morning.
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Day 1 – Monday 1st September
Moored in Corpach basin, preparing to sail via the sea lock into Loch Linnhe and Loch Eil. You can see Nick giving rope handling instructions at the bow.
The sea lock offices at Corpach.
After a traditional breakfast of Porridge and toast we cast off. When we left the lock, we sailed straight through the narrows into Loch Eil. The tide was just about to turn and if we tried later we wouldn’t have made much headway against a 6 knot ebb tide.
Having passed through the narrows, Lyle has just stoked us up!
Looking back to the Loch Eil narrows and Ben Nevis. By the time we reached the end of the loch the weather had turned and the rain had started. On the way back we hove to to meet the steam train “Lord of the Isles” on it’s way from Fort William to Mallaig – with a friendly repast on the steam whistles.
As we passed through the narrows, with the tide behind us, we just about hit 10 knots. We needed to be back at Corpach sea lock before 11:50 to get in whilst the gates still floated, so headed into Loch Linnhe and with myself on the wheel, turned about off Fort William. Nick took over as we approached the lock and brought us in. We passed through to the first of the canal locks where we had our buffet lunch, then onward to Neptune’s Staircase.
On passage to Neptunes Staircase.
As we ascended Neptunes Staircase, the weather improved considerably. Leanne seems happy enough on the bow line duty!
Nick keeps a watchful eye on proceedings.
The view back down Neptune’s Staircase.
Lyall takes a breather – but who’s that with the camera behind?
Nick in pensive mood – will the coal arrive or will we be burning the fittings?
The “VIC 32” always attracts the cameras!
Yours truly walking the “VIC 32” up Neptunes Staircase.
When we reached the top of the flight of locks, we moored up awaiting delivery of 20 tonnes of coal, half of which we needed to load into the bunkers – by wheel barrow!
Bev checks out the SWL of the barrows…
..while Sue cleans the Heritage Lottery fund sign. At last, lottery money being well spent!
The delivery of coal arrived just after 4pm and we all spent the next hour or so loading about 9 tonnes into the bunkers.
Another fine meal followed then early to bed for the next day.
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Day 2 – Tuesday 2nd September
Early morning at Banavie, fine with some showers around but quite still with some low lying mist.
After the hearty porridge breakfast, we turned off the berth and headed up the Caledonian Canal towards Loch Lochy, leaving a trail of smoke behind us.
Having passed through Gairlochy lock, we now approach the entrance to Loch Lochy.
Having done ropes, ash removal and helmsman, time to do a bit of stoking under the careful watch of Lyall. I did do more than one lump though!
Life on deck – clockwise Denys, Mark, Roz, Leanne, Judy and Dennis.
Hardwork all that stoking…….
Bev, Patrick, Denys and Sue – obligatory group photo as we wait for Laggan locks to be ready.
Clearing Laggan lock, didn’t even have time for drink on the converted Dutch barge pub!
Taking in the view as we head towards Loch Oich.
The main A82 road crossing the canal at Laggan Bridge – Loch Oich ahead. We sailed into Loch Oich and anchored in the bay near to Invergarry Castle. Nick had arranged a walk to the castle and to search for mushrooms (one of his big passions apart from the VIC 32). So the boat was launched and off several of the ‘crew’ went.
Nick relaxes, Roz and Judy provide motive power and Todd and Mark supervise!
I had enquired about having a photo session so Lyall kindly did the rowing..
Man at work – these ship photographers never give up on the search for a perfect photo!
And yes, we do seem to be down by the head!!
Another former Dutch barge, the “Scottish Highlander” passes us in Loch Oich.
When the shore party returned, the boat was rigged with it’s sail and Mark and Bev went off with Lyall. Unfortunately very soon the light breeze just died away.
After the evening meal we ventured on deck. It was a lovely clear night and with no light pollution and still water around us it seemed like we were floating in the air. So the night was spent spinning on our anchor.
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Day 3 – Wednesday 3rd September
Another early start and some very atmospheric views around Loch Oich.
Invergarry Castle in the early mists and the still morning sunshine.
One of the ‘tasks’ for the week was to collect wood for the fire in the saloon – Mark and Dennis cut it down to size.
I took to the wheelhouse again and spent some time up there, eventually bringing us into the locks at Fort Augustus, a very picturesque (or touristy as Lyall called it) flight of locks. Even though it was close to lunch, Bev dived off to the chip shop for us to tuck in. Mary and Daphne went off to the butchers for the Haggis…
Sailing from the lock into Loch Ness – Nick played the Skye boat song on the steam whistles to the appreciative tourist crowds.
Figures of eight Lyall!! Mooring at the entrance to Loch Ness to take on water.
The view into Loch Ness.
Another steady 6 knot trip up Loch Ness, eventually mooring alongside at Foyers. Nick’s entertainment this afternoon was a walk up to the Falls of Foyers.
Views on the way to the falls.
The Falls of Foyers – a little abated as water was being drawn off to power the turbines.
Bev and Sue at the Falls of Foyers monument.
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Day 4 – Thursday 4th September
Leaving Foyers bound for Inverness, looking up Loch Ness.
Approaching Urqhart Castle.
The classic tourist vessel “Jacobite Queen” bowling along in Loch Ness.
The top lock at Inverness awaits our entry, just as the weather starts to turn.
While sat in the lock, we had a traditional Scottish meal – Haggis, Neeps and Tatties! Nick performed the traditional “Adressing of a Haggis” ceremony, ably assisted by Denys and Dennis. I was very reluctant to try the Haggis, but it was really very tasty – I even had seconds!
Turning to berth alongside at Inverness Marina – the rain had just stopped but was threatening more.
Nick had arranged a coach trip to Cawdor Castle, I’d declined with the hope of photographing some shipping in Inverness. Everyone except Lyall and myself set off on the mini-buses but the weather still looked far from promising, so Lyall and myself ventured off to the pub and some real ales!
The weather did fair up by the time we returned to the “VIC 32”.
The flight of locks at Inverness.
Our last night on board and after the meal we had the Captains awards. Everyone received a reward for deeds done during the week.
Then followed the Captains Court. Lyall had been making notes all week, the defendants had no right to appeal and were all
(with only one exception “Butch”!) found guilty and handed the punishment of doing the washing up!
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Day 5 – Friday 5th September
A cool grey morning as we set off down the marina to head for the sea-lock at Clachnaharry.
Marker stone at the entrance lock at Clachnaharry.
The outer gates open and we enter seawater on the East coast.
Bev and Sue wrapped up warm as Lyall stokes us up again.
Approaching Kessock road bridge. After this point Bev and myself spent some time helping Lyall
clear the ashes from the boiler.
The weather brightened up as we approached Fort George and Chanonry Point, all of us hoping to be the first to spot dolphins. We were on a tight schedule to be back at the sea lock in time for the railway bridge opening and we turned back without sighting any dolphins. A short while later near Avoch, we spotted a dolphin and it’s calf. The “VIC 32” was quickly spun round and they came and swam with us for a short while before we had to head back to Inverness.
I once again had the helm and sailed us to off the sealock, where Nick duly took over to get us in.
All too soon we were alongside and disembarking to the coach back to Corpach, even Mary and Daphne came with us, leaving Nick and Lyall to await the next passengers.
The journey back took only a few hours and left us with a sunny view of Ben Nevis.
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Onboard the VIC 32
Original builders and boiler plates.
Lower deck looking forward.
Lower deck looking aft.
Saloon looking aft.
Saloon looking forward.
Aft end of saloon and captains cabin.
View from port bridge window.
View from starboard bridge window.
Engine room from starboard doorway.
Engine room from port doorway.
Ships Parrot!!
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I’d just like to say a big thank you to the crew of the “VIC 32”
Nick – for beating us in to some sort of shape – I think we got the ropes right in the end.
Lyall – for putting up with us forever asking questions (MCA report due soon!!)
Mary and Daphne – for providing breakfast, elevenses, lunch, afternoon tea and 3 course
evening meal each day and putting up with some fussy eaters!
Also thanks to Denys, Sue, Dennis & Roz, Mark & Leanne, Tom, Todd and Judy for making the holiday special.